WAVE ATTENUATION AND SET-UP ON A BEACH
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequ...
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Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. I...
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A numerical method for free-surface flow is presented at the aim of studying water waves in coastal areas. The method builds on the nonlinear shallow water equations and utilizes a non-hydrostatic pressure term to describe short waves. A vertical boundary-fitted grid is used with the water depth divided into a number of layers. A compact finite difference scheme is employed that takes into acco...
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The extraction of wave energy by the Wave Energy Converters (WECs) forming a wave farm results in a milder wave climate in its lee, which can have an impact on coastal processes. The objective of this work is to determine whether the beach morphology can be altered by the operation of the wave farm, and if so, to quantify this alteration. For this purpose, we examine how the farm affects the mo...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering Proceedings
سال: 1984
ISSN: 2156-1028,0589-087X
DOI: 10.9753/icce.v19.4